"IS THERE ANY BEST, SAFEST WAY TO NAVIGATE A MENU? Scratch off the appetizers and entrees that are most like dishes you’ve seen in many other restaurants, because they represent this one at its most dutiful, conservative and profit-minded. The chef’s heart isn’t in them. Scratch off the dishes that look the most aggressively fanciful. The chef’s vanity — possibly too much of it — spawned these. Then scratch off anything that mentions truffle oil. Choose among the remaining dishes."